Saturday: Cofete Beach

Saturday we went on our last, and longest, adventure of the week. From Corralejo way up north, to Cofete Beach down south! We started at 9, and the GPS said 3 hours to drive 140km. That couldn´t be right? The roads are surprisingly good over the whole island, and surely we would be there before that time? Anyway, the GPS has been proven wrong before, and we started.

The weather was warm, but cloudy and rain was in the air. A good day to drive! We passed Morro Jable at 10.30. 20 more km, and we would be there!

We followed the signs to Cofete, to a small dirtroad. Bumpy is an understatement, the road resembled an old washboard! We were a bit worried about the car, and when the turns started we understood why the GPS said 3 hours…

That road still gives me nightmares. Literally. Yes, two cars can pass, but just. On one side: the mountain. On the other: well…the mountain still, but kind of going down into the sea…without even the smallest fence…and a bit eroded at places…The road torned over 90 degrees left and right, so there wasn´t the slightest chance of seeing oncoming traffic until they were right in front of you. Steep uphill, steep downhill. And what happens with 10 km left? Our car starts screeching and screaming like a cat in agony! The brakes? The steering wheel? The wheels? Could we even go on? And more importantly: did we have a choice?

We decided to keep going at snailspeed, and take a closer look at the car and rest at Cofete beach.

OMG. That place. It’s totally worth the nightmares!

Cloudy and foggy, and we parked our car and took a coca cola and a sandwich to get in a better mood. It helped some. Ola examined the car – nothing obvious wrong. We decided to just put it out of our minds for now, and enjoy the place we had fought to get to.


Here lives a few people, in houses that looks like they are about to fall down and with sturdy cars that can drive anywhere.  Around us: mountains. And a beach, that goes on forever and is almost empty.


Tourists come here, of course. We followed a caravan of tourist cars to a cemetary that is located down by the beach.

And the we just kept on walking…about 30 minutes, and we didn’ t seem to get any closer to the end of the beach.

When we looked to the right, we saw Villa Winter. Built by a german nazi officer during WW2, now abandoned, and the subject of lots of speculation…Why here? Why so closely guarded? Why are there tiled rooms in the cellar? (If you want to read more, look HERE).


On the other side, more mountains. Cofete is well protected on all sides!


A few years ago there was a film made here (partially), “Exodus, Gods and Kings“, and they left a bus behind. That bus now drives tourists to Cofete, and is a fun element!


And of course here are goats.


We decided to get to Morro Jable and see about the car there. So…we started the journey back. Slowly (and loudly).


We got 10 km, and suddenly…the car went quiet. (OK, not quiet, the motor was running.) No more screeching. No more tortured cat-sounds. We stopped to pet some goats just to celebrate!

The goats had an abondened house as a shelter, and there was written in graffiti: “Freedom is not defined by safety”. Then and there, that felt very true!


So, we headed home, after a brief stop at Morro Jable. That seems like a really nice town, we have to come back and spend a day there! The roads felt even wider and nicer now that I had the dirt road to Cofete fresh in my mind, and the rest of the evening was uneventful. We had had enough adventure for one day!

But I still recommend Cofete. It is worth it.

Coming up: warning for strong winds!

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